A Walk in the…Redwoods ?

In 1905 some enterprising Kiwi brought Redwood seedlings from California and planted them here in Rotorua. 

They never took off …but about 50 acres managed to grow and now are preserved as a nature park. However, being NZ where everything seems to be an outdoor adventure they have built a sky walk among several of the trees about 100 feet up so you can run around if you want. I chose the sedate on the ground walk.  

Everywhere you go there seems to be a nature trail or mountain biking path or a place for kayaking or swimming.  I’ve truly never been someplace so focused on outdoor activities for all ages and abilities.  I took the 3.6 k walk..suitable for all ages and abilities and enjoyed it immensely. Very strange being a California native walking in a forest of redwoods, birch and tree palms. It felt familiar but still other worldly. I met a few people on the path but mostly it was a great walk undisturbed.   I should have done the sky canopy but hey I did go on the jet boat …more on that later 

Rotorua 

I’m not really a spa guy but I got to say between the massage and mud baths and the soaking in the thermal pools it’s appealing. 

 I’m in Rotorua a city sitting on top of huge geothermal activity. Place smells like sulphur and everywhere there are bubbling vents.

 The Airbnb I stayed had a pool and hot tub both getting their water directly from underground. The pool temp was 90• and the spa was literally boiling ..you had to add cold water for 20 minutes to sit in it. 

 I took the skylift to the top of a local mountain to get a look at the whole valley. It’s essentially a caldera that erupted centuries ago and formed the lake but volcanic activity is still everywhere. In 1890 a nearby volcano erupted killing hundreds and creating two new lakes nearby.

 Rotorua is also the center of Maori culture ..more on that later 

 Lots of Beautiful gardens with steam and Victorian buildings. It once aspired to be the spa town of the British Empire but wars and distances made that impossible. 

It’s off season and still a bit brisk for spring but I enjoyed sitting in the pools and hot tub Enjoy the pics 

I love a Car Ferry !! 

In the gulf of Hauruki just off Auckland’s coast is a smattering of small islands. The largest is Waiheke. It’s sort of a 60s counter culture meets Napa valley place as some of NZs most famous wineries are located on the island.  

I took the car ferry and of course arrived late  so I was the last car to board.  

Okay,  I already have to remind myself to drive on the left side of the street but then I had to back up onto the ferry. Not a pretty picture. After five attempts the monitor told me  just to leave it in the middle as no one else was coming on board.   

Apparently I provided great entertainment to the 50 people all watching my park job. When I went into the snack bar one of the guys on a buddys golfing trip bought me a “dads pie “ to keep my energy up for the “arduous parking ahead.” Everyone laughed but that Dads pie was pretty good. I really like the Kiwis. They are friendly and chatty and open. They can be quite cutting but in a funny humorous way. I can recommend the car ferry ⛴ to Waiheke Island and the prime steak Dads pie 

I can also recommend Waiheke Island. Think Napa in the South Pacific 

You know those days when things aren’t going so well so you think back to one day with perfect weather and scenery and friendly people and amazing food? Today will be one of those days Enjoy the pics 

Waiheke Napa in the South Pacific

Waiheke. Completely blown away by this Island off the coast of Auckland. You can only get there by boat and it’s filled with small vineyards and amazing beaches. Had lunch at an old wine shed at the Te Motu winery. People are so friendly here. No pretense. They care that you enjoy the food and the wine and seem to have all the time to engage in a nice chat. After lunch I stumbled upon a farmers market and bought some bread and pate for tomorrow’s drive.  

Food Tour ..at the supermarket? 

Often when I get to a new city I sign up for a walking trip or some sort of cultural trip involving food. I do it because it usually gives you a good sense of the city as you walk around and also lets you identify places you’ll want to return to. I’ve been on some brilliant ones in Sydney and San Francisco and Singapore so I thought I’d try Auckland. So At 9:30 am Elle, a native of the Midlands in the UK picked me up at my hotel. I don’t want to cast aspersions at my English friends and their culinary prowess but I was a bit suspect. Already in the car we’re two very funny and charming ladies from KL who were visiting Auckland as one of them had just relocated to the South Island and was getting acclimated 

Usually on these excursions they walk you through the downtown area stopping at unique restaurants and food makers having you try various food and discussing how it relates to local culture. …I guess Elle missed that memo .

Essentially we went to a coffee roaster watched him turn on his roaster , had a cup of coffee then headed for friends of Elle’s local gourmet supermarket.  There we spent two hours tasting odd NZ products which Elle apparently gets a commission on 

We sampled 

NZ Oyster paste. Now I love a good oyster but somehow reconstituted oyster on a cracker made me a bit queasy 

NZ Olive Oil Hmmmm

NZ Smoked and packaged Mushrooms

NZ Wasabi actually tasty 

And several other weird canned preparations 

In a country famous for wine and beer you’d think there would be a tasting or at least a discussion on wine or beer …no way …we were too busy tasting NZ pine nuts 

Finally,  when I was about to despair we moved to the cheese counter and got to taste several cheeses from local producers. A moment of heaven especially the Edam and the Monkey Puzzle Blue . 

After two hours sitting in the supermarket we headed to the Auckland fish market which had closed for the day so it was like walking through the fish section at Safeway and finally had lunch at a restaurant located next to the market.    Finally a glass of very nice Pinot ! However,  the fish tasted just okay and the oysters seemed a bit dry . .. at 4 am the next morning I found myself violently ill and ended up in bed for a day…  oh well the company was fun and the cheese was amazing I’m sure it was The oysters!!! I might give up food tours but never oysters.  

See below pictures of the coffee roaster (yawn) and our supermarket table and cheese selection and the seafood platter with the tainted oysters 

Adventures at the laundromat ! 


There are so many wonderful things about retirement travel versus business travel. I go to interesting places now and actually get to see them. I can sleep in ,be unprepared and saunter . I never see the inside of a conference center and I don’t have to listen to some sincere insincere corporate type talking about stuff they really don’t care much about lol 

However , there is a downside 

Laundry 

I miss the days of throwing my laundry into a plastic bag calling the front desk and having it all done and pressed and folded as if by magic 

Of course we fixed income retirees cant afford hotel laundry.! 16.00 a shirt ! 9 dollars for underwear! 4.50 for a pair of socks! It’s robbery and those days when I didn’t pay for it it seemed so reasonable lol. Hence, when I travel I’ve become the King of the Laundromat!  

it doesn’t matter where you are in the world or what language they speak go to google and enter “Laundromats near me “ and if by magic they appear 

You know you really meet the most interesting people in the laundromat …just like the bus station or bowling alley 

The Bubble Wash in Auckland is no exception. As always I arrive very early. No battle for the extra large washers. I always use the extra large washers. You can throw in a weeks worth and don’t need to sort anything 

So I arrived at the Bubble Wash at 6:30 am.  

I managed to get through the  throng of homeless folks waiting for the free clinic to open next door. I felt like I was in San Francisco 

Inside I was all alone and the extra large machine was all mine.

I got the machine started and was drinking my coffee from the subway next door when a gentleman came in 

He was normally dressed and very pleasant. He got change from the machine and some soap but he seemed confused as to how the machines worked. Being the laundromat (laundromats are the same everywhere) expert I explained where you put the money and the detergent and how you choose the cycles He had a backpack with him that I assumed he had his dirty clothes in. I asked him if it was mostly whites or colors. “Colors” he said.

He then took off his shoes…bright red sneakers and put them in the machine and closed the door. He never said a word except that his friends complained about his having smelly feet. He then set down barefoot and read his paper for 32 minutes . 

When the cycle was over I was prepared to help him figure out the dryer but he just smiled smelled his clean but very wet shoes and said “that’s better” put the wet shoes on and strolled out of the Laundromat.

To be honest I doubt I would have met someone like him at either the bus station or the bowling alley 

The Journey 


So I wanted to wait a day or two to sort of reflect and sum up the whole freighter thing before I answered the question .

..was it worth it ?

and 

would I do it again ?
Was it worth it ?
Absolutely The trip was illuminating, boring,exhilarating,lonely and challenging. The isolation while really challenging also gave me a distance from my life to reflect on things and think about what …now that I’m a retiree..what I will do next. I think I may not have answered that question but I think I know the direction I will take to answer it . Spending real time with people who I normally would never interact with and listening to them helped me maybe think about some things I know are priorities but haven’t focused on. I’m really excited about some of the things I’m going to try now and accomplish…none of it involves a corporate 9to 5 job 🤓
I also think disconnecting from social media and 24/7 news and constant digital stimulation was a really heathy thing.  

I read more, thought more and walked more…I think I’m going try and reduce my digital exposure a bit 

I also loved meeting the crew and hearing their stories. I’m going to write some of them up and share them in next weeks but it got me thinking about how we all have stories and how we all want to share them or hear other people’s stories. I’ve started a project to do that and I’m going to work on it the next few months 

I think I got on that ship a bit burned out and bit disillusioned with things but got off feeling a bit recharged and thinking of creative things I’ve put on the back burner for too long So overall really positive experience 
Would I do it again ?
Are you Mad!! Absolutely Not!   

Certainly not by myself and not unless I brought my own chef ! It was an amazing bucket list experience but I feel once was enough. The first 10 days where we would stop and hit a Port were interesting but that last trek across the sea was a bit like being in exile and that’s not really me In the end I actually enjoyed the isolation but I missed my family and friends and the world as well. I think I could get the same isolation on land and in a different setting I was a bit overwhelmed by the physical distance and isolation on a sea in the middle of nowhere that I couldn’t leave. At least at a monastery I could get in the car and go for a spin lol.   

Seriously it was an amazing experience and the crew were so friendly They have a tough job I felt isolated and disconnected for 18 days these guys spend 6 months like that. I could see how much they missed families and friends and most of all home. I missed home too. 

Since getting to NZ those feelings have essentially disappeared. I see John and all you crazies on Facebook and see what your doing. I am back to zipping around exploring Auckland and planning my sojourn to the South Island I don’t feel disconnected or displaced I feel excited and rejuvenated. I promise the rest of my posts will be more travel and less ramble 

Someone asked me what was the worst thing about the trip ?

The Food.    

It wasnt horrible …it was just boring and institutional and reinforced the isolation monotony and schedule of the ship.
The best thing
The crew. Their stories their willingness to make you a friend and share their space with you . I think the saddest thing is that I will never see any of them again but grateful for the sliver of life they shared
The stars

I can’t articulate to you what the night sky looked like and how amazing it was. Only that it gave me enormous comfort and reaffirmed my sense of wonder and exploration…and isn’t that why we travel to begin with 

The Skies at Night 

A lot of water 
When I planned the trip I had visions of endless seas filled with dolphins and whales and amazing vistas 

Well, I got the endless seas but haven’t seen a dolphin since the Caribbean.   

I find myself gazing out looking for something but it’s just endless blue 

Of course what I hadn’t thought about was the night sky I wish I could describe it in an articulate way. In my entire life I’ve never seen anything like it. I tried to take pictures so I could share the incredible starry nights but it doesn’t turn out. So many nights I walk up to the bow and sit in my special plastic lounge chair and just watch the sky. The ship is totally dark and I find myself drifting off a bit overwhelmed by it all I get how our ancestors used the stars to find their way. It truly is like a map and the stars are so bright out here. I can see how following the various constellations could take you anywhere 

The pictures I took didn’t do it justice so I stole this one as it really shows the incredible light and clarity of the Southern Sky. I will think of those night skies the rest of my life 

I came expecting the endless sea but was blown away but the Southern night skies 

Over the next few days I’ll sum up my freighter trip and then move on to NZ. Don’t forget I love the comments 

Institutionalized!!!

I’m sure many of you wonder why I haven’t been put away long before now but my days  on the boat did feel a bit like I had been  institutionalized .  I could go anywhere but off the ship and could come and go as long as I made those meals   

When I booked my passage on the Bernhard S I had envisioned total freedom. I could wander where and when I wanted to. Talk to the crew or be a total recluse 

However, what I discovered is life aboard is very regimented, which, now of course makes perfect sense. Cause it doesn’t revolve around me ..sadly..but around the work they are doing. I am essentially a high maintenance human container they are transporting. 😇 It’s a working ship and it keeps working hours and if your on it you need to follow that regiment at least when it comes to meals.  

We eat ‪at 7:30 am‬.  Then ‪11:30 am‬ and then ‪5:30‬. If you don’t make those hours you miss a hot meal and end up sorting through the walk in fridge looking at god knows what for dinner.  Ive tended to just eat lunch and then do a sandwich at night.  John would be proud of my PBJ dinners. Meals are quite heavy and bland ….definitely not Queen Mary fare. It’s like your eating at your elementary school cafeteria with large portions …everyday. It’s the worse part of the experience. To be honest as the days have dragged on I’ve come to dread the meals. The lack of variety and the strict time schedules make me feel a bit like I’m in an institution. Everyday some kind of frozen meat with some kind of frozen veggies with some canned fruit! Lol. We don’t appreciate the choice we have ! The first part of the trip people were very chatty and friendly but now the closer we get to shore the more withdrawn we all seem to be. Of my 5 constant dinner companions three will leave the ship when I do and head home after months at sea. Their thoughts are definitely turning to home and family and my mind is drifting to my friends I miss and my husband who I love and the excitement of getting to New Zealand . I’ve missed a lot of meals just walking on the deck or reading on the bridge and while no one says anything I think my absence is noted. In a way I’m the entertainment! I’ve enjoyed the solitude to be honest but I do feel the pressure to follow the regiment more closely especially because these guys are really nice and friendly and good company when we are engaged. I’ve particularly enjoyed the conversation especially with the captain and the chief engineering officer. Good guys with lots of seafaring stories.  

So when I get to NZ on the 9th I’m going to have a big Latte followed by the largest salad I can find and then a wonderful steak with perfectly cooked broccoli and a baked potato and I’m going to eat it at noon or at 2 or at 9 pm or whenever I feel !  

It was an amazing experience and I’ll write more in next few days but the food was not the highlight ! 

Panama City 

Was really surprised by Panama City. We got a surprise day there two weeks ago when we couldn’t get in our berth . I had never been there so not sure what I expected but found a really interesting mix of old and new. With a great mall that sold Oreos! The skyline looks like Miami but still lots of colonial architecture especially in the old town section.  

I might need a second look here in the future