Rotorua is the center of the Maori people in New Zealand. Being the typical unaware traveler I always assumed they were an indigenous people whose culture was under threat and dying caused by the evil of European colonialism.

Yes and no 

First, if you visit the Maori cultural centers they point out that the Maori people were colonizers themselves. While some disagree on the exact date the first verifiable migration to NZ of the Maori was in the 1300s not all that more recent than the Europeans.  Though in long canoes it required a lot more guts . 

Secondly, despite land grabs and dirty dealings by the Europeans the Maori have actually managed to maintain land holdings and their culture is being preserved and maintained by their own commitment to education and cultural preservation.  

Of course their is still a lot to do 

Anyhow, I spent a day at the Maori Village where they try and maintain and educate people about their culture and then I went to the glitzy over the top throughly entertaining Maori Dinner and Cultural show. Sort of Las Vegas Of Polynesia but done very well and throughly captivating Usually these things depress me but in this case I was actually happy to see how integrated the Maori is in NZ life and culture and how they refer to their way of life in the present not as a thing of the past. It was an interesting and entertaining day ! Plus those Maori Warriors…I mean when they paddle up in the war canoe who isn’t gonna love em! The village is built around the mud holes and steaming geysers of Rotorua which made it even more interesting especially as they have channeled that geothermal power to use in everyday life.  Rotorua gets an A!